Why don’t more people like Milan?
Whenever I tell people (especially Italians) how much I love that city it’s always met with way too much disdain. I’ve been twice, I’m planning a third trip, and all I can surmise is that all these people are just doing it really, really wrong.
I’ll admit, I do go at the same time of the year, more specifically when it’s time for the International Furniture Fair, Salone del Mobile Milano, and trust me it is the best way to see the city because everything opens up. Design installations and exhibitions are spread wide throughout the city, as are all the best food and drink spots so it’s super easy and incredibly interesting to take an area a day and set yourself a map of food to design to food to design to drink to food to design and back again, keeping both bellies and creative minds completely satisfied all day long.
Old government buildings and palazzos of all kinds are home to some incredible sights, not just of the very talented design work exhibited but the architecture of some of these historic buildings is reason enough to take a good old wander. Similarly the Orto Bontanico di Brera which are usually open to the public anyway are made twice as amazing by also having installations inside, and then you have delights like the Duomo di Milano in Centro Storico and those entrances Taschen published a whole ruddy book about too that are awe inspiring even without the addition of modern international design pieces.
Milan boasts a wealth of design powerhouses all year round, such as my favourites in lighting Apparatus Studio and BDDW which is home to the sexiest clock in the world (pictured), and for the proper keen beans there is of course the Fondazione Prada just a short cab ride or tan worthy walk away. Japanese design store Tenoha never fails to rinse our pockets, and also has a damn cool cafe/ restaurant adjoined with near unlimited Insta-capability.
Last year’s highlight (and new favourite spot) is the ultra sexy Six Gallery. Housed in a 16th century Italian monastery, the space is split into three, a florist, design gallery, and the lush Sixième Bistro. Admittedly we didn’t eat at the bistro as we hit it at the wrong time (between big meals) but did have a very well made coffee, and the menu did look super so it’s down as mandatory eating on the next visit. Dark painted brick, lush green plants, mid century furniture and perfect mood lighting makes it a place you’d want to hang all day. The gallery itself is also just drop dead gorgeous. Dark painted brick throughout with perfectly composed collections; my other half would sell his soul to own/ live in this place and I’d really be alright with that if he did. It’s just the sexiest place I’ve ever been in.
When it comes to wining and dining, you’re in Italy, so there is so much good stuff!
Stretched along the Navigli are some really cute local bars you can grab a nice cold one from, as well as some very good quality and generous aperitivo hour offers, so if you’re on a budget you can certainly fill up at some of these without it stinging the wallet. But if you’re looking for the greats, Rita’s is a damn fine cocktail bar just towards the end fo the main stretch, Sixième isn’t too far away, as is Tenoha who neighbours a really cute casual eatery called Taglio in which we had an excellent carbonara, and just a little further south is the Fonderie Milanesi which is a great fun place to hang out in the evenings. A little off the beaten track but it’s a big industrial space inside and out, nestled between a bunch of warehouses, workshops and garages serving up great casual bites and a broad selection of drinks. Think Hackney Wick vibes… Milan Wick!
Further central just off Via Brera is a regular spot of ours, Nabucco, serving up all things classic Italian and is a great lunch spot when sat in the outdoor area. There’s a really great bustle around there which coupled with a super tasty meal makes you feel like you’re really in the thick of Milano life.
Head a little further north and you’d be silly not to stick your head in the door of 10 Corso Como which again is an everything-in-one destination. Shopping, gallery and super cute bistro in a gorgeous courtyard abundant in draping vines and essence of cool.
Ratana is a an incredibly tasty looking restaurant not just because it’s in a beautiful old castle, but the menu looks awesome. Unfortunately we’ve never managed to get in as it’s so popular, but we shall continue trying. If you get in before us let us know. However, just around the corner is another regular spot, Café Gorrile, which serves excellent casual rustic staples in a setting to match, coupled with a fantastic wine list and really great service, I’d recommend this as a must!
Just about done? Then head up to Bar Basso to finish yourself off. Situated on a busy junction, this seems to be the go to for locals and designers alike during the Salone. Patrons literally pour into the street all night and the atmosphere is quite infectious, so just keep your sbagliato topped up all night and go make some friends.
After all that you’ll probably need a coffee. Apart from all the aforementioned places that do it well, Cofficina (just north of the Navigli) is a speciality coffee drinker’s wet dream. Slick brew bar with a La Marzocco Leva to boot. But fave is scandi style Orsonero just a little out to the east. Worth an extra half hour round trip from the centre, the shop, service, coffee selection and quality is all spot on, never fails to impress.
Which evidently is the running theme of Milan.
This is all from two four day trips, and still doesn’t include everywhere, just the highlights. So to all those who have apprehensions about visiting, or indeed have visited and come back less than impressed, then I’m sorry hun but you did it wrong.
Let me take you by the hand next time.
Ciao.
#harrisonthehand