The south of France is so sprawling and utterly beautiful everywhere it’s the gift that keeps on giving.
Having been twice now in two consecutive years (and as I write this, t’other half is currently enjoying himself again down there) I can’t see myself stopping any time soon. It’s everything; the landscapes and beauty of the country, the food and wine and other less important drinks, the activities, and what really makes it all even more enjoyable is the sheer ease of it. (For now anyway, Eurostar updates notwithstanding.)
Anywho, you and the crew sort yourselves out with a few bottles of bubbly and jump on the Eurostar at St. Pancras, 5.5 hours later and you’re walking into a wall of mediterranean heat at Avignon station. If you’re in a group then hiring a car collected right outside the station is by far your easiest and cheapest option to get about once you’re there.
But don’t run off straight away. Avignon is gorgeous. It’s ex Papal rule so is still almost completely fortified, plus there’s the mahusive and beautiful Palais des Papes (the largest Gothic palace in the world) to take a meander around and behold. There’s a lively market town feel about Avignon, loads of cute squares lined with local cafes, and some great hidden gems too.
Close to the Palais is the pretty swanky Bar Le Complot, a 19th century mansion with the perfect dining terrace. Lined with tall bamboo and massive windows into the bar, lunch comes in the form of a salad in a jar. Yes it puts the wanky in swanky but it’s worth it for the quality and surroundings. Jardin des Carmes is definitely worth a visit on an empty stomach. A more casual setting, and you really really have to try hard to look past the green and purple corporate-office-trying-to-be-cool-and-modern decor in what is otherwise a lovely enclosed garden. The food is delicious, taking quite fun and inventive takes on things like Mexican nachos (pictured). It’s worth finding and really good value. For the coffee drinkers, Café Tulipe is a must. Used to be a smaller caf, and is now sharing a grander space with a pretty cool designer homewares store.
While we’re on the subject of food, another couple of solid choices outside of Avignon: the delightful Chez Serge in Carpentras; think meat and truffles in abundance, in an enclosed garden sheltered by lush trees. And Les Verger des Papes in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. Sorry but I honestly can’t remember what exactly I ate there, and I don’t think I got any photos (idiot) but I just remember it being great, with incredible locally produced rosé, and stunning views across the region. Yeah if your pockets can stretch to a fancy dinner then this is the one.
Of course if like us you’re a group and opt for the self catered approach, you’re in France! The local markets everywhere will give you every kind of fresh and incredible produce to sort yourselves out with. The supermarkets are actually pretty decent too so you don’t need to worry about where you end up, their average beats our best most times.
And if you don’t have at least 3 kinds of cheese with every meal you’re doing it wrong.
Oh in regards to that self catered malarkey too, we’ve used purefrance.com for accommodation each time and it really hasn’t disappointed. The range, the prices, and the service has been spot on every time so yeah click there to find your chateau for the week (Mazan and Althen-des-Paluds get thumbs up from us). Each time we’ve barely wanted to leave base because they’re both spacious and just incredibly beautiful.
As for what there is to do, well, Provence is more about what there is to see.
It’s fucking beautiful.
Roussillon is a favourite, it’s in one of the world’s largest ochre deposits so as a big fan of the colour orange it’s always a pleasure to see. Cliff faces and clusters of buildings all in ochre pop out from all the lush green surrounding it, so it’s an Instagrammer’s wet dream. The blanche pizza from restaurant La Sirmonde, which also comes with breathtaking views from the terrace, was in my top 3 pizzas of all time.
And I like pizza.
Gordes will have you fighting amongst yourselves on the roadside as to who can get the best photo. The town is on a sheer drop of a cliff side in the middle of Luberon, is gorgeous to look at, to look out from, and also has an adorable market running throughout it.
If this isn’t getting you all wet, the next two certainly will.
Pont du Gard is another site to behold. An ancient roman aqueduct bridge that is as impressive from every angle as Ryan Gosling is. You can get your 10000 steps in having a lovely wander around it and then jump into the river below for a relaxing swim.
Want more adventure? Then head over to Fontaine de Vaucluse and grab yourselves a kayak. The water is the most clear, turquoise water I’ve ever seen, and a fun couple hours kayaking later you’re ready for a swift rosé at Restaurant Philip before heading over to L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue for the ultimate antique shopping experience. Amazing architecture everywhere, most times filled with just as impressive antiques, the town is a network of cute bridges and river side cafes and restaurants as the Sorgue splinters here and there, so it’s an easy place to spend an entire day shopping and eating.
As I’m writing this sat in my kitchen in Homerton with it pissing it down outside I’m starting to get more than a bit annoyed that I’m not there right now. So safe to say booking next year’s trip won’t be far off.
It’s easy, it’s beautiful, and can work on many a budget, so there’s no excuse really.
Look out for volume 2 of Provence next year then.It’s looking like it could be an annual thing.
Merci!
#harrisonthehand